Formulation efficiency and quick problem solving

Typical challenges for cosmetic formulators

• Stability of emulsions
• Skin feel modification
• Viscosity control
• pH drift
• Color change
• Scaling-up

Systematic development is key

• Big changes are better … – to see and feel a real difference
• Min/Max batches and then mix them
• Cold processible co-emulsifier for time-saving tests
• Modifying the batch at room temperature to act quickly (oils / emulsifier / homogenizing)
• Centrifuge as top/flop measurement system
• Heat stability data (40°/50°) ➔ color change / creamy vs. glassy / droplet size increase
• Microscope visualization and droplet size comparison

Sensorial formulation adaptation process

As an example, your marketing wants to have the product somewhat lighter or smoother … How can we adjust and work systematically in the lab?

Key factors are:

• Choice of emulsifier
• Choice of oil components
• Choice of additives

1. Choosing an appropriate cream base / project cream base
2. Dividing into several portions
3. Adding oils at RT, homogenise softly, then evaluate their influence on sensorial aspects by adding enough material to clearly feel a difference
4. If the level of oil was too high, mix again with cream base to “dilute” the effect until you like it